Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Good news for South African tourism; with Cape Town and the Western Cape taking the cake

At a time when an economic  slowdown has affected various sectors worldwide, it would have been logical to expect a decrease in the tourism sector as well. But the opposite has happened in South Africa – statistics have shown an impressive increase in visitors over the December 2011 holiday period.

Reports revealed a vast increase in foreign tourists arriving in South Africa in December 2011 compared to the same time a year before. According to the Department of Home Affairs, 2.5 million foreigners entered the country during this month, with most visitors coming from the UK, USA and Germany.

When one considers that this was the year after the country hosted the 2011 Soccer World Cup, then an increase in tourism is a remarkable feat by any standards!

Most of the travellers who came to South Africa in December travelled to the Western Cape, traditionally one of the country’s top holiday destinations for domestic and international arrivals. In a statement released by the province, Western Cape Tourism Minister, Alan Winde said the province had seen a 17% increase in the number of international visitors arriving at Cape Town International during the past holiday season.

Regional travel to the province increased by 26% and even domestic arrivals increased by almost 5%. During the whole year, there was a growth of just over 4% in terms of passengers arriving at the airport.

The Western Cape’s top tourist attractions also saw an increase in the amount of visitors. The top destinations according to the numbers of visitors were:

    •    The Table Mountain Cableway
    •    Cape Point
    •    Kirstenbosch Gardens

There was a decrease, however, in the visitors going to Robben Island – which could be attributed to a host of problems besieging this World Heritage Site. Bad service, infrastructure problems as well as difficulties with staff on the island seem to have had an effect on travel to the island.

On the upside, travellers showed more interest in attractions outside of Cape Town, with the following areas attracting a significant increase in visitors:


    •    De Hoop Nature Reserve
    •    Arniston
    •    Napier 

Outside of Cape Town, the Winelands was the most popular region to visit. More than half of the foreign travellers to Cape Town had travelled to this region.  

The increase in tourism to Cape Town and surrounding areas has been attributed to a few factors, like the fact that the city won the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Number 1 Destination of 2011. The city was also chosen as the World Design Capital for 2014 and its glorious Table Mountain was voted as one of the New7Wonders of Nature.
Lonely Planet also named Cape Town as one of the world’s top ten beach cities. Exclusive travel magazine Conde Naste mentioned Cape Town as the top city to visit in Africa and the Middle East and Huffington Post also said it was in the top ten most popular cities in which to study abroad.

By Andrea Botha

Thursday, January 19, 2012

The highest pub in Africa

“Hello… hello… hello….” Answers my echo, on an icy breeze, no one close enough to hear it. The open spaces and rolling plains of the Drakensberg Mountains stretch for kilometers ahead of me. Our 4x4 vehicle snakes up the pass around one hairpin after another, an 8km crawl to the Sani Top Chalet or ‘rooftop of Africa’, best known as the highest pub in Africa. The pub is situated at a height of 2 874 metres above sea level on the edge of the Drakensberg, overlooking the foothills of KwaZulu-Natal from the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.


Mike enlightens me with the details, “Once, the Sani Pass was a rough mule trail descending from the eastern highlands of the old Basutoland into Natal. Basuto traders brought wool and mohair down the pass on donkeys to be exchanged for blankets, clothing and maize meal, the essentials for life in a poor, remote place. Today, the Sani Pass leads to the only border post between KwaZulu-Natal and Lesotho.”
“And when did the first 4x4 travel the pass?” I ask.
Mike continues, “The first vehicle to conquer the road was driven by ex-RAF Spitfire pilot and adventurer, Godfrey Edmonds in 1948. It took three and a half hours to complete using the assistance of a Basuto labour gang, ponies, chain pulleys and a lot of rope to get to the top.


The Landrover sloshes through a water puddle, sliding in the mud to the edge. Mike manoeuvres the 4x4, regains control and returns it to its normal course. He laughs at the frightful expression on my face and then tries to calm me with, “Be glad there’s no snow on the road yet. Many trucks have slid over the icy edge, as you can see by the rusted chassis skeletons in the ravines."


The rest of the trip passes in silence. Just like the terrain around us. The only disturbance is the occasional smiling shepherd with his herd, which, as quickly as they appear, disappear over the ridge like ghosts.


From the outside, the Sani Top Chalet resembles a small edifice hidden from the world, but a billowing chimney signifies life and promises a warm and cosy hearth. The only other structure up here is the small border checkpoint in a scruffy hut across the road which houses the Lesotho border officials.
   Three men huddle around a pot bellied stove, a small desk and a short wave radio playing. They look bored, staring at me with lifeless eyes. More than likely I’m one of only a few people they will see today. Yet they still give the impression that I’ve interrupted a very busy schedule and that by stamping my passport they're doing me a huge favour.


Sani Top Chalet is a charming house-like hostel. The lounge and bar’s hearty atmosphere makes me sigh with content. Feeling cheery I hop into a high arm chair in front of the glowing fire, awestruck firstly by the homeliness of it all and then by the view through huge windows next to the fireplace.


The wind whips up, sending snowflakes in a stream across the windowpane. “The weather changes in the close of a shutter here,” says host Jonathan Aldous. The sudden snow squall had swallowed the blue sky and golden green foothills, a grassland mountaintop setting that was there just minutes before.


Jonathan takes out the Gluwhein, pours some in a glass, offering it with a smile, “There’s not plenty to do here. In winter folks go snowboarding, yet many just want to pass the time reading in front of the fire. While in summer there’re endless ridges to explore, like Mount Thabana-Ntlenyana, the highest peak in Southern Africa at 3 482 metres. You can hike or book pony treks, which is the best way to explore the local villages.” He fills my glass again and I close my eyes, head touching the headrest of the seat, recapping the events of the day.
 

This is not a destination for the easily bored. Its isolation is its attraction with hours spent musing over weather patterns, studying the many photos on walls, from the first ascent of the Sani Pass to the building of the chalet, to the many occasions when visitors have been stranded up here for weeks, snowed-in to the height of the roof. Here, like most of Africa, there’s always a story and this one says: ‘Sani Top boasts to be one of the calmest settings and best viewpoints from the rooftop of Africa’.




By Rizel Delano

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Namibian gems...

Klein Aus Vista, 120km from Lüderitz, is another worthwhile Namibian stop, with a great choice of accommodation. Their Eagle’s Nest chalets are recommended if you want a treat or would like self-catering and privacy.

Desert Horse Inn has spacious rooms, and a friendly campsite surrounded by an amphitheatre of granite rock. (A sunset walk up the koppie is a must!) Don’t miss a stop at the Garub viewpoint to see the wild horses of the Namib.
 



Lüderitz Safaris and Tours, owned by Marion Schelkle, is a booking agency for accommodation and excursions in the desert town of Lüderitz. They keep a good selection of books about Namibia and will happily offer advice on all activities.

The town of Lüderitz has a rich and interesting history. A visit to Kolmanskop, the abandoned diamond-mining town, on its outskirts, is highly recommended for a taste of what was once opulence in the desert, a touch of history and loads of photographic fun.



Shearwater Oysters offers tours and tastings, and if you’re there on Friday evenings, tapas style meals in their oyster bar.

To experience the desert extremes, view the cross planted by Bartholomeu Dias in 1488 and enjoy a slice of decadent chocolate cake and coffee, take a drive around the bay to Diaz Point.

Operators offer trips to the Sperrgebiet, once forbidden diamond territory, to see the remains of diamond mining towns and the Bogenfels rock arch that juts out into the sea.



Don’t forget to visit the Felsenkirche, the 1912 rock church, and to take a trip on a catamaran.

For an evening pint of local Namibian beer and oodles of Lüderitz character, stop in at the brightly painted Barrels restaurant and bar. Prost.

Ron Swilling is a freelance writer who has a love for the colourful continent of Africa, the land and her people. Her work is featured in magazines in South Africa and Namibia, and in two books recently printed on community tourism in Namibia and the wild horses in the Namib Desert.

Contacts
Ghost Town Tours/Shearwater Oysters
kolmans@iafrica.com.na
+264 (0)63 204 031
+264 (0)81 128 4336

Klein Aus Vista
reservations@klein-aus-vista.com/info@klein-aus-vista.com
+264 (0)63 258 116/258 021
www.klein-aus-vista.com

Lüderitz Safaris and Tours
ludsaf@africaonline.com.na
+264 (0)63 202 719
+264 (0)81 129 7236

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Table Mountain: Cape Town's pride and joy...

South Africa is home to beautiful and breathtaking landscapes, and recently one of the country's most well renowned - Table Mountain - was voted as one of the New7Wonders of Nature for 2011 alongside the Amazon, Halong Bay, Iguazu Falls, Jeju Island, Komodo and the Puerto Princesa Underground River. Having initially being selected as one of 440 candidates in 2009, Table Mountain attracted millions of votes from around the world and when voting closed on Friday 11 November, it was declared the winner.



I remember the first time I visited Cape Town in 2008 with my fellow classmates I could not believe my eyes when I first saw this gigantic table of a mountain. Questions jumped around my head like: How did the table shape of this mountain come about? What are the geographical factors that led to such a beautiful feature? My fascination was further intensified when I woke up the following morning and there was what seemed to be a draping covering the mountain resembling a table cloth.
 



The Table Mountain Cableway, established in 1929, has taken more than 21 million visitors to the top of the mountain, where there are extraordinary views of the Cape Town shoreline, the city centre and surrounding areas.
 


The crowning of Table Mountain as one of the New7Wonders of Nature will see an increase in tourism in the Mother City and will further challenge the City of Cape Town to develop new, interesting and genuine tourism offerings to satisfy our discerning visitors.

By Bongani Mtlhavani

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

A charming safari alternative

If you’re going to see game, specifically the Big Five, it seems logical to head to Kruger. But there’s a reason why you shouldn’t always do as logic dictates, as I found out last month when I headed into Limpopo to explore.

In fact, as much as I love Kruger, I think I’ll be saving up to spend my next game-watching escape in the 11 500 hectare Thornybush Nature Reserve, which is large enough to be home to vast quantities of game, including the Big Five, but small enough to be quite easily traversed if you’re up for a number of game drives.

And honestly, who wouldn’t be? The bush is teeming with life and we saw the Big Five in just two game drives: three leopard, five cheetah, four lionesses and a male lion (whose name happens to be Marvin – nobody knows why!) and herds of buffalo and elephant. Not that this happens every time, you understand; but the experienced trackers and rangers are so attuned to what’s happening in the bush that their best guesses usually take you straight to some unforgettable sight.



We spent two nights at the wonderfully private tented camp Nkelenga, which is unique in that it’s self-catering and you can book the entire camp for your family or guests. The camp is a home-from-home for up to nine people and has its own open Land Rover, which our ranger, Joe Mabunda, drove really well – as he was forced to, when we were following a male leopard over some sandy and hilly terrain.

The camp has a fridge, freezer and open-fire area overlooking a large waterhole, so you can eat outdoors or in the comfortable dining-room, or on the terrace. Nkelenga is rustic but sufficiently luxurious – guests want for nothing. If you don’t mind doing your own cooking (but not washing up – that’s taken care of), then it’s worth staying here for the freedom and privacy you can enjoy.
Naturally, the water hole attracts its fair share of game: a herd of buffalo spent quite some time here and we were close enough to see them distending their nostrils as they got a good whiff of the humans close by.

They seem serene, but there’s something hugely untameable about them. I personally find them scarier than big cats as they seem far more aware, and far less tolerant of one’s presence. Apparently they’re extremely unpredictable, perhaps because neither their sight nor their hearing is particularly good. They’re nothing like the domesticated water buffalo you see in Asia, for example; they have a reputation for aggression and even lions think twice about taking them on. When you meet a stamping, snorting herd in the twilight, you definitely don’t cosy up to them; it's far better to put some distance between you and these massive creatures, I always say.


We had a couple of fish-eagles coming to sit in the branches of thirsty trees – the seasonal rains had not yet begun and the bushveld was very dry, which did make it a little easier to spot game. Fish-eagles are criminally easy to spot, not just because of their colouration but because their call is absolutely unique: a distinctive African sound that can penetrate your soul.

Once you’re on game drives, you rely on the wits and experience of your tracker to guide you to game. Our tracker, Vusi (Joe’s son, keeping it in the family), was quick to pick out some hard-to-spot creatures. One evening, he managed to spot a young black mamba in a tree. Considering that young mambas are light grey in colour, and the tree itself was grey, the fact that he spotted it at all was astonishing.


I pity game-watchers who think that the bush is all about the Big Five, and having twitcher Rosemary Renton along with us on our trip was really enriching as she identified a lot of bird-calls for us. She brought her books along with her and we soon found ourselves poring over them, trying to identify some lesser-known winged creatures. My husband was fascinated by the massive termite hills – being from Iraq, he had not seen them before, and I had to restrain him as he wanted to leap out of the vehicle for a photograph with one. (We managed that later on in our trip, near the Blydepoort Dam in the Blyde River Canyon).



We spotted some unique animals you don’t see very often: a black-backed jackal, a serval, a chameleon trying to cross the road, a tiny steenbok, some beautiful eland. The bush is rich, even when it seems barren – if you are still and quiet for long enough, something tiny or huge will appear, crossing your path either cautiously or incuriously. There is just so much to be alert too. Our city senses need to adjust to fully appreciate what’s around us.



At night, as we sat around the campfire, we heard the coughing grunt of a lion somewhere close by – surrounded by just a fence, the small camp is in the heart of the wild, which makes it really special. As a massive thunderstorm broke on our last night there, and we watched sheet lightning flicker over the water hole, we again heard the lion, as if just outside our luxury tent. It was one of those primal moments that everyone heads for the bush to experience and we were thrilled and terrified at the same time.





Now if that isn’t the essence of being in the bushveld, I don’t know what is.

By Fiona Zerbst

www.nkelenga.co.za/

Monday, November 28, 2011

Snow skiing in SA!

The wind whooshes past my ears, the cold biting my face. Pieces of snow jump up from my skis, sticking to my brows and eyelashes. I push the rods deeper into the snow to speed down the hill. I bend my knees even lower, squint my eyes and zigzag down into the valley below. The blood gushes through my veins; my stomach churns as I charge to the bottom. Panic sets in; will I ever be able to slow down? Fear burns inside my belly and I make the mistake of standing upright, allowing my legs to slip beneath my body, and causing me to fall onto my back, and swirl around so that my head is facing downhill. Needless to say I tumble down the slope until I eventually stop against a tree. I remain frozen for a few seconds, trying to register what has happened. Laughter erupts from my belly. Wow… that was fun.





Snow is not common in South Africa, but there is one dedicated ski resort in the Eastern Cape Drakensberg region called Tiffindell. Tiffindell Ski and Alpine Resort was established in 1993 on the slopes of the Ben McDhui peak (3 001m) and is the only ski resort in sub-Saharan Africa. In the winter months from June to August, over 5 000 visitors from all over the country take part in activities on the slopes. The natural snow is supplemented by a snowmaking system that guarantees an average of 95 days of skiing per year. Tiffindell has a 700-metre long ski slope with lifts, instructors and ski- and snow board rental so all you have to do is arrive.


The lifestyle around the skiing is also important and there is cosy alpine style accommodation, good food and of course a great bar and much partying to be had. If you love the mountains, partying and even a little bit of skiing then you can find it here at Tiffindell.
 

 
Compared to skiing in Europe or the States you’ll find that this is by far the most affordable skiing experience in the world. The demand for snow-fun results in an overflow of visitors into the nearby hamlet of Rhodes in the valley 20km away, a town steeped in a 100-year history. Rhodes is the snow and sun playground of South Africa, lying deeply in the southern Drakensberg in the quiet of the highest mountains of the Eastern Cape, where the purest water springs offer a retreat from civilisation.

In summer the mountain rivers run clean while the rains bring greenness to the valleys which resemble the Scottish Highlands. The famous wild trout makes this area a fly fisherman’s paradise. The accommodation ranges from campsites and self-catering, through to comfortable resort lodging with central heating and glowing fires. Hiking, mountain biking and horseriding in this pristine environment - together with the many Bushmen paintings - make this the perfect place to get away from it all and enjoy nature at her best.
 



There are other places where one can ski close by in Lesotho - one being at Sani Top in the Southern Drakensberg Mountains - but they are not formal ski areas so you will have to be really keen and adventurous. If you have the extra money and are lucky with the snowfall, there is some wild and unchartered heli-skiing on offer too.

By Rizel Delano

Eastern Cape Tourism: www.ectourism.co.za

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Namibia: The Gondwana Lodges

Cañon Roadhouse and the slightly more upmarket Cañon Lodge are attractive middle-market lodges offering great accommodation options in the canyon area (and a 40% discount to South Africans with a Gondwana card). Highlights of a stay at Cañon Lodge includes a walk up the koppie (small hill) in the evening to watch the sun set over the Gondwana Cañon Park as well as sunrise amongst the quiver trees.


Pick up a copy of the book ‘Expelled’ about the lives of the two Schanderl brothers who once owned the original farm, Karias. They arrived in German South West Africa with the Schutztruppe (German colonial troops) and fell in love with the country, eventually building their farmhouse and supplying vegetables to the area. They were deported after World War I and for many years attempted unsuccessfully to return to their beloved home. The reception and restaurant area are located in their original and quaint century-old Bavarian farmhouse and a bedstead still remains on top of the lodge roof, a sign that a bachelor resided in the house.


The quirky Roadhouse, with its collection of old American cars and memorabilia, is an intriguing stop while in the south, just 10km from the entrance to the Fish River Canyon. And remember to take a peek into ‘Pandora’s Box’ in the central area’s bathrooms! The rooms (with air-conditioning - essential for the scorching summer heat) are constructed around a courtyard. Cañon Lodge’s stone bungalows are nestled into the granite boulders.


If you’re a hiker, slack-packing trails (the mules carry all gear) are offered in the northern reaches of the canyon in the winter months, providing an up-close and personal introduction to the flora and fauna of Namibia.

By Ron Swilling

Ron Swilling is a freelance writer who has a love for the colourful continent of Africa, the land and her people. Her work is featured in magazines in South Africa and Namibia, and in two books recently printed on community tourism in Namibia and the wild horses of the Namib Desert.


Contacts
Cañon Roadhouse & Cañon Lodge
Tel: +264 (0)61 230 066
Email: info@gondwana-collection.com
Web: www.gondwana-collection.com